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Fabric Dyeing 101
April 20, 2007
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We have a new Columnist! Ask Jennifer all your dyeing questions..
Vintage Fabrics
February 20 - Is There a Silver Moon in Your Quilt?
January 20 - Part III: Any Powder Puffs or DayLee in Your Quilts?
December 20 - PART II: Any E&W Prints in Your Quilt?
November 20 - PART I: Any Rondo Prints in Your Quilt?
May 20 - Wrights - Memories of an American Institution
May 20 - Underground Railroad Quilt Code
October 20 - Up Close and Personal with Vintage Aprons
November 20 - Colorful Vintage Tablecloths and Towels
September 20 - The Legacy of Warren Featherbone
May 20 - Some Costumes for Elderly Ladies
March 20 - And That's a Wrap - Oh to be in my ki-moni-yo
February 20 - Life Was a Breeze with Fans
January 20 - Please Don't Ridicule My Reticule!
April 20 - More Mill Connections
February 20 - One Woman's Failed Struggle to Quit the Fabric Habit
January 20 - The Indian Head Connection 3
October 20 - The Indian Head Connection 2
September 20 - The Indian Head Connection 1
August 20 - Recycling Vintage Fabrics
July 20 - Sanforized: Fabric's Best Friend
June 20 - History of the Printed Tablecloth
May 20 - Decorative Relief Carving in Wooden Spools
April 20 - Vintage Hankies - More Than Sneeze Catchers
March 20 - Indian Head Remembered - Revisiting An American Institution
February 20 - Doll Couture Vintage Style
January 20 - Meet the Azlons from A to Z: Regenerated & Rejuvenated
December 20 - Osnaburg the Great
Part 2 Home Beautiful with Cretonne, Chintz, Barkcloth & Crash
November 20 - Osnaburg the Great Part I -- Feedsacks on Our Backs
October 20 - WWII Fashions Part 2 --All Dolled up
September 20 - Cotton Dyeing in the 18th & 19th Century
August 20 - Hooked on Buttons
July 20 - Pillow Talk
June 20 - WWII Fashions
May 20 - A Going-Away Dress
April 20 - Harriet Quimby
January 20 - Capes
December 20 - Umbrellas
November 20 - Weaveprints
October 20 - Grenadine
September 20 - Bias Tape
August 20 - Dolls
July 20 - Thread Chart
June 20 - Vintage Costuming
April 20 - Building A Textile Reference Library
March 20 - Profile of Collector
February 20 - Feedbags
January 20 - Cambric
December 20 - Gizmos
November 20 - Trims
October 20 - Stores 1920-59
September 20 - 1880-1919
August 20 - Sweatshops
July 20 - Label Scandal
June 20 - Bias Tape
Extra: Bias Tape Chart
May 20 - Miracle Fibers
April 20, 2000
March 20, 2000
February 20, 2000
January 20, 2000
December 20, 1999
Ask Andy
December 20 2007
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2001
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May 20, 2001
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Guest Columnists
Dyeing Stretch Velvet
Sewing Dance Costumes as a Business
Window Treatments
Stretch Velvet
QuiltVisions
September 20 - Quilt colors
July 20 - Quilt colors for summer weather: Are you ready?
September 20 - Can every quilt be your favorite?
April 20 - Ideas: Springtime color bursts feed our imaginings
March 20 - Quilt ideas are You-nique
August 20 - Inspiration is all around us
May 20 - Purpose leads quilters to joyful adventure
January 20 - Remembering loved ones with a quilt vision
December 20 - Pleasing, honoring, creating = JOY
November 20 - It's Not too Late For a Christmas Quilt!
October 20 - Recipe for happy quilts: Seeing Red!
August 20 - State Flowers: the longest online swap?
July 20 - Summertime and a quilt is. .
June 20 - Black and white and. . . what?
May 20 - Busy agenda vs. quilt workshops
April 20 - Challenge quilts try us, stretch us
March 20 - Inspirations at home make quilts sing and bloom
February 20 - A Joyful Quilter is a Treasure
January 20 - Imagination sparks Elm Creek quilters and us!
December 20 - Whoops! Ten tips to turn celebrations into quilts
November 20 - What's good enough for Grandma is good enough for me!
October 20 - What's in a name?
September 20 - Heart influences
August 20 - Color studies prove magical
July 20 - United in Memory Quilt
June 20 - Purple and gold
May 20 - Color your world with Wow!
April 20 - Themes carry out dreams
March 20 - Quilt Condos and Communities
February 20 - "I just did it"
January 20 - Small Groups
December 20 - Lively Quilts Get Out of Bed
November 20 - How are we Remembered?
October 20 - Quilt Shows
September 20 - Comforting NY
August 20 - Spirit and joy
July 20 - Shop, Shop...
June 20 - There's always a beginning
A Quilter is Born
October 20 - Washington Quilt Show
August 20 - Fabric Choices
July 20 - Quilting Disasters
June 20 - Guilds and Groups
May 20 - A Quilter is Born
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|
|
February/March, 2001:
Feedbags: From Rags to Riches
A very successful ad campaign The Other White Meat certainly improved porks image
and sales. In a way that slogan parallels the remarkable renaissance of feedsacks.
When one spoke of vintage fabrics, the prima donnas hog the spotlight -- exquisite
lawns, batistes and voiles, lush silks and velvets, fine wool and would leave one
to believe these were the only fabrics worth having.; everything else sits on the wrong
side of the tracks. That one would even consider feedbag a fabric was tantamount to
treason and expulsion.
| Just as the nouveau riche
overcame high societys snubs, so did the feedsack people unite to prove that they
were not an updated version of the carpetbaggers. With their endless variety of sacks
creating a booming marketplace and top prices, collectors have shown feedsacks are now
indeed The Other Legitimate Fabric. Feedbags deserve their own niche; this column
cant do the topic justice but it can inform the uninitiated, such as myself, about
giving due respect to all fabrics, regardless of their origins. |
EXTRA! Feedsack goes
respectible; Nefertiti to trade Sphinx for bags to make coronation robe. 
- Ms Nefertiti's wardrobe courtesy of Betty Wilson.
|
If you are a beginner thinking about starting a collection or would like
to know more about feedbags, here is some advice from a roundtable of five feedsack
experts/collectors who share their thoughts and open up their collections to make this
column possible. They are members of the Quiltropolis vintage fabric list and the Yahoo
feedsack fanatics list discussion groups --
Paula Hammer, Lilburn, GA, collector, quilter, has three feedsacks featured in Fabulous
Feedsack Quilts, will soon retire from Verizon and have more time for hobby; Jane
Clark Stapel, Pittsburgh, collector, lecturer, conductor of feedsack conferences and
seminars and founder of Feedsack Club; Sharon Stark, Pennsylvania, quilt collector,
dealer in the old and curious Sharons Antiques, and writer and teacher of
fiction; Judy White, New England quiltmaker, teacher and lecturer, collector of old
newspaper quilt patterns, vintage quilt books and feedsacks; Betty Wilson,
Wisconsin, lecturer, exhibitor, collector and dealer in vintage hankies, linens, fabrics
and notions and author of a book on cat humor.
Origins
What is the fascination with feedbags, this once lowly regarded coarse, homespun
textile called chicken linen -- nostalgia for times gone by? a relic of Americas
agriculture progress? a piece of American folk history? a part of childhood? something for
a colorful display or quilting?
| The feedsack or feedbag was
at the peak of popularity during the 1930s-50s. Just as vast economic changes contributed
to its beginnings, it also contributed to its decline. Much of the historical facts cited
here are from Anna Lue Cooks Textile Bags, a resource every feedbag collector
should keep securely pinned to her side. To this greenhorn, it made absolutely no sense
when some one told me to use a cookbook to learn about feedbags; later I realized it was
the Cook book. Up until the mid-1800s, storage containers were primarily wooden barrels,
boxes, tins and to some extent, pottery. It was the abundant source of cotton from the
South which enabled the transformation to cotton bags for flour, sugar, meal, grain, salt
and feed. Eventually this led to the births of industries for weaving bag cloth,
manufacturing bags and developing inks suitable for printing on textiles, not to mention
those handy with words to come up with catchy advertising .
The early bags prior to 1850s were handsewn, handmade and usually bore an identifying
handstamp of the individual taking it to the gristmill. With the introduction of sewing
machines, bag manufacturing and sales increased although were still too expensive for most
companies to purchase. As late as the 1880s barrels were still the preferred storage unit
but by WWI they had all but disappeared.
Once established, bags were produced in varying sizes from one pound for household use
to those 12 feet long for picking cotton. The original sizes corresponded to barrel
measurements for a pound to 1/8 pound of flour. In 1943 bags were standardized into six
sizes ranging from 100 pounds to two pounds by order of the War Production Board.
It was the depression which created a real demand for bags as frugal housewives
discovered they could reuse and recycle them. Empty bags were prey for conversion into
boys underpants, childrens clothing, aprons, dresses and everything else imaginable.
To accommodate the little lady as well as sidle in a great marketing ploy,
manufacturers added figured and dress prints to the whites, browns and other solid colors
of earlier manufactured bags. Some bags came ready for sewing with doll patterns printed
on one side or sewn-in drawstrings that when one seam was ripped produced an instant
apron; others were specifically printed for pillow cases or curtains. Pattern companies
issued appealing booklets for sewing attractive garments and how to care for sacks. A 1942
estimate showed that 3 million women and children of all income levels were wearing print
feedbag garments. |

1780-1850s -- Mather &
Platt six-color textile press as shown in Manual of Textile Printing.

Calico roller, 1893.
Experiments were carried out in the field of photographic engraving of copper cylinders to
print textiles. Cylinder was then exposed to light to etch designs into the metal plate.
Each color required its own plate.

Early 1900s press which
was a multi-color or six-color machine.
- All photos above from Manual of Textile Printing,Van Nostrand
Reinhold, 1974 Courtesy of Betty Wilson

These attractive calico
prints from Archer feed sacks c1930-40 would end up as equally attractive house dresses,
at least from a colorful viewpoint.
-- Courtesy of Betty Wilson |
Bags were made from three types of cloth: print cloth with the highest
thread count, three grades of cotton sheeting and osnaburg having the lowest thread count.
Manufacturing stages involved cutting, folding, sewing, clipping turning, labeling or
printing of logos sometimes washing instructions were included, inspecting, baling
and delivery to vendors. How a bag was to be used determined how it was to be folded and
cut.
| In 1941 there were 31
textile mills that manufactured bag goods. Some of the textile bag manufacturers
controlled their operations from field to finished bag. Bemis Brothers, Fulton Bag &
Cotton Mills and Cottons Mills of Atlanta had their own textile mills. Jane Stapel notes
that Bemis also introduced Bemaron bags for all-rayon blouses, dresses, underwear, slips
and scarves and that some Bemis bags were made from cambric, chambray, denim, percale and
toweling. Other major bag manufacturers and suppliers were Chase, Illinois State
Penitentiary in Joliet, Staley and Lone Star. Sharon Stark adds that Percy Kent of Buffalo
NY made the famous WWII feedsacks known as Kents Cloth of the United Nations.
After WWII, new technological innovations and increased family budgets affected
societys spending habits. More sanitary and effective packaging, less prone to
rodent damage, were demanded, leading to heavy paper and plastic containers. By 1948 this
new industry cornered 53% of the bag market.
Manufacturing of bags is limited today. Judy White learned last month when she talked
to Mason Marketing Co, a distributing company in McPherson, KS, that cloth bags are still
used in the Midwest, that certain Amish and Mennonite communities prefer flour and feed in
plain and printed bags so they can be used for tea towels and other household needs, and
in certain sections of the South some companies still distribute feed in textile bags.
Judy also adds that souvenir bags can be found in some tourist areas which have restored
gristmills. |

Kent's Cloth of the UN from Percy Kent,
a major New York bag manufacturer, featured wartime symbols of WWII with Tojo,
Hitler and Mussolini in a skillet titled Keep 'em Frying. At right is one view from Sharon
Stark collection; left is another view from Jane Clark Stapel collection.

Example of cloth bags still being
produced in recent years. This one for Seal of Kansas unbleached bread flour was purchased
in Overland Park KS about 10 years ago. Distributor is Mason Marketing Co, McPherson KS.
- Courtesy of
Judy White |
Paula Hammer reports that Shawnee Milling Co. makes bags for special
orders, and that at a feedsack conference three years ago author Anna Lue Cook said bags
were still in production and could be purchased at some Alabama stores. Quilters Laurette
Carroll and Judith Gridley have spotted small rice and flour cloth bags in supermarkets in
southern California and Spokane WA, respectively. There are also bags made in a synthetic
blend; see the environmental note at the end.
Continued on Page 2 - Feedbags: Wisdom from the Roundtable
Don't miss Page 3 - Feedbags: Pictures
|